I arrived in Prague in the early morning via an overnight bus from Krakow with a company called czech-transport.com. From the very first instant I laid eyes on the city I knew that I’d love this beautiful place. I walked through the cobblestone streets to my hostel and marvelled at the stunning architecture as the pink morning light cast a warm glow over the city. I arrived at the Czech-Inn Hostel and was equally impressed by my accommodations. The hostel is an example of a new class of boutique design hostels which still have cheap accommodation and dorm rooms but with a sophisticated edge. The Czech-Inn is located in an old restored mansion, the building retains some of its old world charms with modern upgrades including concrete floors and stylish bathrooms. It also has a great bar which serves happy hour Pivo (beer in Czech) for almost nothing. Beer in general in Prague is cheaper than water, usually about $1 CAD for a pint.
On my first day I did a free walking tour organized by the hostel, which like most of the free walking tours in Europe are led by young expats, in this case a Greek. Our guide was quite humorous and seemed to enjoy telling the more violent aspects of Prague’s past, including the centuries of clashes between Catholics and Protestants. Apparently the fighting was so horrific that a large majority of Czechs now prefer to identify with no religion at all. After the tour I had lunch at a traditional Czech restaurant with a few people I’d met on the walking tour. The beer was great and dirt cheap, Czech food on the other hand isn’t anything to write home about. Lots of pork, gravy and “dumplings” which are just starchy bits of bread and/or potato. After the walking tour I got back to the hostel to find out that Miranda, an Aussie girl I had met twice in Italy, had happened to be in Prague and staying at my hostel by total coincidence. We had a few happy hour beers and snacks at the hostel then did the pub crawl. The bars were all very cool, most of them located in large subterranean spaces with old stone and brick walls. After a few too many beers and shooters the bars all kind of blended into each other, but from what I remember it was a good night out!
In the morning I woke up sweaty, hot and hungover. Have I mentioned yet that it was brutally hot in Prague and that for some insane reason Europe doesn’t believe in air conditioning? Despite the extreme temperatures I ventured out to see the some of the main sights that weren’t covered in the walking tour. I walked across the iconic Charles Bridge up towards Petrin Tower, basically a copy of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It was a pleasant walk though since most of it was shaded by a lush park. From there I checked out the incredible views of the city from Strahov Monastery and Prague Castle. The city is so filled with ornate gothic architecture that it almost looks Iike a fairy tale land, it’s easily one of the most beautiful cities I’d seen in Europe so far. After getting back to the hostel I had few happy hour beers with Miranda then we grabbed food at a restaurant near by. I was feeling quite tired and exhausted mostly from the heat but I ventured out to check out one of the gay bars, more out of a sense of obligation than anything. I went to a small place called Friends and the intimate friendly vibe lived up to its name. I stayed for a few drinks and enjoyed the music but just wasn’t up for a big night out.
The next morning I said goodbye to Miranda who was heading to Berlin, and since it was so bloody hot I decided to spend the day at one of the public swimming pools. It’s one of the advantages of traveling slow and spending a few days in each place, I had already seen most of the city and did not feel at all guilty for just laying in the sun on a steamy summer day. Podoli swimming pool was a short tram ride away and was nothing like any outdoor pool I’d been to before. The sprawling complex had an indoor pool and two huge outdoor pools, I opted for the outdoor one. The entrance process was a little confusing as the cashier knew very little English, and I have a feeling that I accidentally overpaid. With record setting heat and it being a weekend the pool was of course jam packed but it had a lively festive atmosphere. People were drinking beer, hanging out, tanning and doing flips into the water. A large number of women were topless, and there was even a nude section near one of the bars. Only in Europe!
The next day I went to see the DOX centre for contemporary art which had an interesting exhibit on the disabled and how they have been treated by society throughout history. One of the more thought provoking pieces showed how the disabled are portrayed in film and pop culture. They typically fit into the role of the villain, the victim or the inspirational and saintly Forrest Gump type character. The rest of the afternoon I wandered around the old town until the oppressive heat started wearing me out. I went back to the hostel to enjoy a few happy hour beers and otherwise had a quiet night in. Unfortunately the two Aussies in my dorm had quite an evening, and one of them was so drunk when he got back that he climbed into my bed on top of me thinking it was his bed. Thankfully his friend yelled at him and told him to get out. I couldn’t help but laugh, I think I’ve seen it all now when it comes to hostel life!
On my final day I enjoyed a Czech goulash and beer at the St. Norbert brewery inside the walls of Strahov Monastery. I was joined by a nice young girl from Amsterdam who was traveling on her own for the first time and still getting used to the whole experience. It reminded me of my first stop in Tokyo earlier this year, being in a totally different place and feeling uncomfortable being on my own. The company, the setting and the beer were excellent. The food as usual was nothing special.
I’d only heard good things about Prague before going and it definitely didn’t disappoint. The architecture is stunning and it has a energetic youthful vibe, with expats from all over the world who choose to make the beautiful city their home. I’d say it’s definitely one of the must-see capital cities when touring through Eastern Europe.
